With its main design philosophies of asymmetry, imperfection, incompleteness and austerity, wabi sabi has been an influential aesthetic for many designers across the globe. It has reached new levels of meaningfulness in recent times with the rising appreciation of artisan and hand made fashion as a reaction against mass production and rampant consumerism. The true beauty of wabi sabi lies in the appreciation of the imperfect, which comes through and is embraced in hand made pieces. Fashion has taken advantage and almost fetishised the hand crafted and rough look and made items that emulate that look without actually following the true values of the design philosophy. It has been turned into another wasteful and short lived product by Western society. However, there are brands and designers still looking to change things and do things the slow way, embracing the natural processes and the qualities of the raw materials. Here is a look into the work of less known contemporary designers that are adapting wabi sabi ideals in their work.
British streetwear label A-Cold-Wall creates unfinished, dirty looking and untidy everyday wear that takes the ideals of wabi sabi and combines them with a contemporary sensibility. The items look worn out and have been taped up with duct tape but still look desirable. Each piece is unique as they are hand dyed to all have a slightly varied finish. The garments are authentically individualistic and not trying to pull off a marketing trick; instead the designer wanted to showcase the touch of the maker.
Story MFG's garments are hand loomed, spun, weaved and dyed to create collections with an austere beauty. The pieces that may vary in their colouring and hand painted details, charm with their imperfections and make each piece a one of kind. Inspired by indian colours and textures, the collections focus and excel in denim but also range into other materials suitable for everyday wear. The brand has taken up production all around the world with different expertise sourced in their respective countries; Hand woven denim and Tahini dyeing in Thailand, laser printing in Valencia and Batik dyeing in India. All these crafts experts join together to create a tapestry of pure skill that combines into lasting, good quality clothing.
The Doen garments are hand woven, embroidered and knitted locally in California and overseas in India and Peru. The pieces have a raw and nostalgic feel with the vintage LA inspired look coveted by the women who owned and founded brand. It is about finding pieces that are comfortable and designed for women by women, in a way that doesn't have to be glamorous in a conventional sense, but finds beauty in nature. By reusing old styles and connecting that with a feminist agenda, the brand is elevating wabi sabi to the modern era.
It's easy to put Armani in a box of being a minimalist, but I would be lying if I didn't say I was intrigued by the Armani Silos Exhibition in Milan on many levels and felt that there is more to say about his designs than that. The first sensation you get entering the exhibitions is his vast experience and long lasting tenure in the fashion industry. He has dressed everyone and done everything, all the while maintaining his precise image that he is so well known for.
The first floor focuses on the "greige" colour he is so well known for, combining grey and beige. This made me immediately focus on the serenity in the detailed craftmanship of his work, which made me decide to focus on the details of his creations; by this I am talking about the bows, buttons and folds that come together to create something extraordinary, and something unmistakably Armani. From the first floor, if you don't know much about Armani before hand you might think his aesthetic is only severe and clean cut which are corner stones of his design process. However, it goes above and beyond on that, building on the simple idea of immaculate tailoring. Everything feels flawless and in a way there is a feeling of wearing a second skin when you dress up in one of these ensembles. Armani is like a life line for a lot of celebrities and the trusted go to designer for all their red carpet events, and it would be hard to imagine the fashion world without someone like Armani.
There is always an air of softness and lightness in his designs that emulate a sense of comfort. This started from things like popularising the power suit for women that made him the go to man for a comfortable yet powerful looking get up. One thing that is certain is that every single piece is made up of exquisite tailoring and every single detail seems considered and purposeful. This makes up a picture of the design house and you can see a clear vision that Armani has implemented that weaves a line through everything from the choice of fabrics, inspirations of the collections to details in accessories. It creates the Armani world that is unmistakable and an important designer to know about. If you are ever in the area and have an interest in fashion, I highly recommend going.
I got this gigantic fluffy poncho as a Christmas present this winter. The moment I saw it I felt an instant connection and it screamed at me how we belong together. It will keep me warm (one of my top priorities while getting dressed) as well as providing me with a sort of fashion tent to escape the harsh reality. On top of all this it has fringes, an aztec like print and it makes me feel all warm and cozy inside. What a perfect gift! Moving on from winter to spring can be difficult sartorially and mentally, but ponchos, thick sweaters and light jackets will do the trick. t is like the comfort blanket for a modern woman that is always on the move, going from one place to another with no constants. This is why me and my poncho belong together.
Two weeks ago, I made the big move from London to Milan. I am here on an exchange at IED in Fashion Communication for the term, and cannot wait to see what my time here has to bring. So far Milan has been everything I expected and more; sublime ice cream, beautiful girls and boys dressed immaculately, breathtaking architecture and lovely new friendships formed. I hope to soon create a post about life here in Milan so far but as you can probably understand, the beginning is always a stressful and exciting time. So once I have really settled down I will create a post with some of my favourite imagery so far plus some thoughts about life here. Stay tuned!
When spring time comes around I get the feeling of being more alive and vibrant; somehow I find so much positive energy in the simple things in life. I get excited by things like fresh fruits and veggies, birds chirping, the smell after it rains and when the sun peeks through the clouds. These things make me want to go out and do refreshing things. Explore the city, take a jog in the park, buy new clothes, get a haircut. There is a sense of liberation in the air: no more hiding under sweaters and duvets. The feeling of leaving the house with sunglasses shielding your eyes from those bright sun rays and coming home when it's still bright out is just indescribable. I feel a clear shift in my mood.
So why am I condoning cheating? By definition, cheating is acting in an dishonest way in order to gain an advantage. When if you are cheating just a little bit, for example not following your strict diet for a day in order to have a cheeky ice cream, it can feel just as liberating as spring does. We all need to break the rules once in a while and break out of our chains to explore our limits. So start doing things in your own way and cheat the rules of dressing by putting a crop top on top of a dress and feel the satisfaction of not caring. Let go of your predispositions and let the good times roll. You'll thank me later.
The
topic of sustainable fashion always comes off as a tedious subject
that most people just want to brush under the carpet and ignore.
After all there are so many more intriguing subjects in fashion, such
as emerging talents, the secrets of traditional fashion houses and
new techniques in production that people would rather talk about. But
when pressing issues such as factories collapsing surface, we have to
start making drastic changes about the perception of sustainability
and soon.
Shocking
information about high end designers arises every time a discussion
about ethical fashion opens up. Some do not know where their clothes
are made, and 48% of brands last year had not traced the factories
where their clothes came from. Even more were not aware of where
their raw materials came from.
But this
is not what you want to hear. If you are going to read an article
about fashion, you want it to fulfill your wildest dreams about a
glamorized industry, not some ramblings for the recycling of old
fabrics. However, sustainability is about so much more than this. It
is a major and provocative theme to explore through a collection. It
can evoke a strong emotional response and icons like Vivienne
Westwood have been making it a worthy topic with provocative imagery
and print tees.
What
needs to be done is make sustainability go through a transformation
from a trend to a timeless requirement: something as necessary as
advertising for designers. A few UK based designers are already
taking a stance, and Stella McCartney is amongst the most known
advocates of ethical fashion and Katherine Hamnett who was a pioneer
of fair trade principles. There is a looming feeling of the progress
getting slower however.
There
are initiatives like the Green Carpet Challenge that Erdem took a
part in during LFW this fall, using lace leftovers from old
collections and fabrics made from recycled fibers and plastic
bottles. Faustine Steinmetz' reconstructed old denim jackets,
Christopher Raeburn used naturally dyed silk and Katie Jones'
knitwear showed how upcycling can be edgy. These are designers that
are creating positive promotion for a serious issue, in a way in
which more people will see it as an exciting opportunity.
However,
usually the focus of younger, emerging designers is placed upon the
creation of innovative garments with interesting technical details,
and not much attention goes to the environmental consequences or the
treatment of the workers. Fashion schools should be placing more
emphasis on the teaching of ethical fashion as a chance to
differentiate whilst taking a stance with an important issue.
Students may not know the most cost effective way to be ethical, and
therefore simply decide to ignore it.
It needs
to be acknowledged that being sustainable isn't an unfortunate
guideline you need to follow, but an opportunity to create unique
fabrics that will make your designs stand out and create a positive
reaction from the public. The advantages of ethical fashion is simply
not discussed on the same level as its horrible consequences are.
The
problem doesn't seem to be with consumers not wanting to buy ethical
clothes, it is with designers not providing them with suitable
products. There isn't enough range; if a garment is organic it's
basic and old fashioned. As Senior Curator at the Museum of Modern
Art Paola Antonelli says: “Few labels are as frayed and worn
out as "green" is. In absence of any organised approach or
regulation, manufacturers and users alike have flaunted and
overstated ecological virtue to the point of devaluing it”. If
”green” became popularized in a way that made it look tasteful
and important, we would be well on our way to a more environmentally
friendly industry.”
As the
bigger design houses set an example for younger designers to follow,
we can hope more emphasis will be put on the consequences of poorly
planned production so that we can make a real difference and change
the way ethical fashion is seen. It's no longer old patchwork rags,
but an intriguing way to contribute to a world wide issue.
During a harsh winter that devours you and extended periods of hibernation under the covers, it feels exceptionally good to be invigorated by long walks outside or a chat with a friend you haven't seen in a while. It's safe to say most of us are guilty of becoming a little isolated during the colder months. I have days when I realize what a procrastinating sloth I have become, and that I need to get a grip before I get stuck in a state of zero motivation and spirit. It is in these times that I realize that the sense of exuberance that I chase after comes from within, and there are ways to bring out that spark that lives inside you through a little tweak in your wardrobe. I am generally not the kind of person to wear a colour that is even in the ballpark of dark, but everyone gets stuck in a sartorial rut from time to time. I find that a visit to Beyond Retro is always helpful in this regard, since it is a goldmine of one off garment finds. There was this one striking coat with a Victorian floral pattern on pastel turquoise. I knew it was the one the minute I saw it; I will never see anyone with anything like it again, it will never go out of style and it was immaculately made. This would be the piece that would lead to the rediscovery of the fire inside me, and so it did. I am back on the blog, writing after god knows how many months and the writer's block of a lifetime. There are no excuses, but I will say I am back, and ready to get this ball rolling again.
London: It's a collection that takes you to a dreamy summer nights' garden in Izmir, Turkey, amongst lemon and pomegranate trees. Jennie Barck reports.
Differing from the general vibe of the collections at London Fashion Week, Bora Aksu conjured up a slightly wistful collection. It seemed to be nostalgic towards simple times when girls aspired to be flower crown wearing fairies, sitting in your grandmothers' garden with tea a crochet table cloths.
The show opened with a baby pink look consisting of a blazer, textured peplum top with lace detail and a translucent and fluid skirt. As the show went on, the outfits became more impactful as ruffles, face paint, and black crochet were introduced. The true highlight as the events unfolded however, was the finale where the models marched down the catwalk with bursts of tangerine, lemon and magenta; it took you to a richly coloured garden at its prime.
The collection was dominated by a multitude of sheer silks in powder pink and pure white, and contrasted with pitch black crochet and tangerine; reflective of how light controls everything. There were the usual Peter Pan collars, pretty cocktail dresses and traditional beauty could be seen through floral prints and feminine silhouettes. This time however the collection was a more personal one, linked to specific moments in time that Aksu remembers from his childhood, which gave the collection some more context and depth. The music that was quite futuristic also contrasted with the overall nostalgic feel.
The references are quite literal; you see the colours associated with sunsets, the flowers from the garden, and the breezy summer fabrics. Forms on skirts seem to be inspired by petals of flowers and prints include a rose pattern. Still there is no doubt that Aksu has developed a strong sense of design aesthetic and knows exactly what the customer is looking for in his designs; feminine grace, comfort and fluidity.
The flower crowns and fluid skirts are elements that add the collection a girly charm, but the streamlined blazers and suit trousers make it a collection for a woman who dares to cherish her past self. It felt opulent, but in a girl-next-door kind of way. You can also see the influence that the ballett and opera have had on the collection, from the intricate lace detailing to the lavish use of fabric and layering. The make up was was minimal, hence reminiscent of ballerinas.
The collection didn't challenge Bora Aksu's ideals of beauty or portray a radical point of view, but it was a refreshing change from the rigorous designs of other designers. It almost felt like a reaction against the seriousness of fashion, reminding us that being true to yourself and your roots and just taking a step back can be crucial at times.
Having worked at my internship at London Ethnic during LFW I got to walk around and see a bit of the streetstyle around the venue. As you can see most of the pictures they are quite blurry and seem to be taken in a rush which I think is an accurate picture to paint of anyone's time at LFW this year. Brewer street was busy, buzzing with photographers, bloggers and streetstyle stars. It was cramped and I barely had the time to look around to what was going on around me. The best time and place for observing the vibe of the city was when we were sitting in a restaurant across the street from the actual venue. It was like window shopping for new style inspiration, sitting there looking at all the cool kids and insiders walking by. Here's a few photos that I hastily snapped on my iPhone whilst running from one place to another; I hope they demonstrate the plethora of interesting styling techniques and people that were around London during the week.
Yesterday I felt motivated and ready to explore new hip areas. I felt like I was reborn in my brand new squeaky clean white Mango sneakers, my Absolute Vintage jumpsuit and second hand Missoni top. I was in an artsy mood and so I thought; what a perfect day to go out to explore the galleries at Gillman Barracks, and I wasn't wrong. A perfect back drop for a mini fashion shoot with its white buildings with intricate detail and lush forest surrounding it. I feel like I do have to admit something: I'm quite an art gallery junkie. I cannot think of many other situations where I feel as content as I do whilst scrolling through photography, sculpture and painting, soaking in the visual thrill and discovering the meaning behind it. It must sound lame to a lot of you but oh boy do I enjoy it. The ironic humour in some of the art pieces and the pure eye candy amused me the most. After walking around seeing art from countries as far flung as Italy and Afganistan, we went to have a bit of a coffee and ice cream break. A satisfying little Sunday walk about that ended with a peaceful Yin Yoga session; what more could I ask for.
I have been doing quite a bit a exploring of new spots and some old favorites. Recently I found out that Gardens by
the Bay, which I have visited a number of times before, does something
wonderful right in front of our eyes without us knowing. Being at the
top of technologically advanced countries, I'm not surprised
Singapore has a few ecological tricks up its sleeve. The Supertrees
are not only eye candy; they are also used as solar panels to light
the trees up during the night. There's water harvesters, heat energy
is reused for other purposes and so many other cool things; all the
more reason to love this compound full of photoshoot opportunities. There's plenty of more information about this on their website, and even more at the mini museum under the domes. I recommend this tourist attraction to anyone visiting Singapore; it is a breathtaking site. Just one of the ways Singapore is using it's skill of combining
stunning beauty with eco friendly intentions.